October 2014 - Page 2 of 2

October 5, 2014October 22, 2014

Manang Acclimatization Day (aka the day hike from hell) October 5, 2014

Manang, Nepal, Ice Lake Acclimatization day

3 Things:

– Hiked to over 15,000 feet elevation (higher than the summit of a 14teen-er)
– adorable dog guardian of the ice lake at 15k ft
– kinda wanted to die

Best part of the day:
Switched tea houses to “the good one” for our second night in Manang. And it had a warm shower and good food!! Of Dal Bhat – yum!! A good meal, nice shower and friends to hang out with was much needed after the day hike from hell (see worst part of day). We got to chat with some fun folks from Israel and Germany and the States.

Baby Yak with bow, Manang Nepal — Baby, yak. Sooooo cute with his little bow.

Worst part of the day:
Guidebook said “nice half day hike for acclimatization” … And “beautiful ice lake with 360 views of 3 mountain ranges”. It was 5 hours UP. We gained 1,100 m in 10-12k… That’s 3,609 feet in elevation gain ! To put us at 15,000+ ft in altitude. It was no half day hike. There was no ice in the lake, it was more of a puddle. And to ad insult to injury the clouds rolled in just as we were getting to the top, so no 360 degree views for us. On the positive, it was great prep for the next couple days. We don’t go that high again until the day before we cross the pass. And alwadty I feel better acclimated.

I’m thankful for:
God giving us bodies that are so adjustable. It’s pretty amazing how my lungs and heart and brain can all change to less oxygen this quickly. And how my muscles and legs are about to carry me up these mountains. It’s a pretty amazing creator that designed these bodies.

Memory verse:
1 John 5:5
“Who is it that overcomes the world except he who believes that Jesus us the son of God.”

Rick’s Take on the day:
Found good coffee at Tilicho Bakery, 2 double espressos!

“Easy half day Manang Acclimatization Day” turned into death march from hell. Guide book said 4-5 hours, turns out that’s only the uphill part not coming back down. Good views which would have been better had we started earlier but with switching rooms we got a late start. Clouds rolled in in the afternoon and spoiled most of the views. The lakes themselves weren’t that spectacular, small shallow and surrounded by dusty rocks. Highlight of the hike was the puppy dog that meet us about 14.5k ft and leaded us to the lakes. Sweet dog, all by himself at 15,000 ft!

New place to stay “Tilicho Hotel” was very nice! Food was great, we both had Dal baht, and seconds! Great common areas and a warmish electric shower.

Owner saw a snow leapard right by our room just 5 days before we arrived, and had lots of pictures to prove it! Soo cool.

Liz hiding in the Yak Herder Ruins, Manang, Nepal. — Liz hiding in the Yak Herder Ruins.

October 4, 2014October 18, 2014

Ghyaru (3670m) – Ngawal – Manang (3540m) – October 4, 2014

3 things:
– Yaks!
– Drugs from friends
– Desert

Hiking today was through high altitude desert, which really surprised me. It look a bit like Utah. But with great mountain views!! Saw Annapurna II, III, and IV

Best thing about today:
So I haven’t slept in 2 days. I’m exhausted. I mean the sitting up wondering what’s wrong with you that you are so tired but can’t sleep. Staring at Rick sleeping. But it’s supposedly part of the altitude effects that it’s hard to sleep. Today I was over it. Need. To. Sleep. It’s making me crrrrraaazzy! So we got into Manang and met up with some American friends, they were saying they had the same problems and helped us find some drugs to help me sleep. It’s the next morning now and I feel like singing!!! Yea for kind new friends with medical backgrounds! Rick’s best part of the day was Manang had “everything” for sale so he went a little crazy and got some Pringles, chocolate, TP, comb, sunglasses and cookies!!!

A tale of two drinks:
We stopped at a Tea House in Ngawal for a tea mid-day and they had two surprising additions the the usual, black, mint, ginger, masala teas; Local Herbal Tea and Sea Buckthorn Juice. Now Sea Buckthorn Juice was something I had heard to try and Rick was curious to try “Local Herbal Tea.”

Well the results are in and Sea Buckthorn Juice is the clear winner… “Local Herbal Tea” tastes like something they sell to adventures trekkers that don’t know any better (Rick). It looks (and tastes) like it is comprised of stuff they swept up off the porch and steeped in hot water. Basically it’s like drinking Magnolia Soup (The pretend soup our neighbor girls made for us out of things they found in the yard). Shout out to the Jacobus Girls.

Worst thing about today:
Made a bad choice on the tea house to stay at. Room was ok, but there were no common areas, the staff was not very good or friendly, and the promised hot shower, was neither hot nor a shower. But worst of all was dinner. See when you stay at a tea house/guest house, you have to eat breakfast and dinner there – so the cooking is as important as the room. We got excited upon seeing all of the yaks around that we could get some meat finally! Everywhere advertised yak steak!! So we ordered for dinner. Mistake. It was a sort of meatloaf-esque chunk (maybe 20% meat) seared and covered in mystery gravy, some chunks and a few soggy fries. Like poutine’s evil cousin. Even the plain rice at this tea house was bad! (See: Rick and I debating if the little brown oval shaped things were mouse poop or a special spice. I’m still voting mouse poop)
Our California friends stayed at a different one and we had major tea house envy… Tomorrow we move. 2 nights in manang for acclimatization.

Yucky Yak "Steak" — This was supposed to be yak steak… it was more of a yak meatloaf patty. Even the “salad” was covered with some kind of “gravy.” Just no good.

I’m thankful for:
Drugs to make me sleep.

Memory verse:
We were slackers today 🙁

Tomorrow is supposed to be a “rest/acclimatization day” and we heard the “100 rupee monk” (as recommended by or “guide book”) is still alive but sick and in Kathmandu so no easy hike there. New plan to tackle the Ice Lake tomorrow… our guide book says it’s an easy half day hike.

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October 3, 2014October 18, 2014

Chame (2670m) to Ghyaru (3670m) via Upper Pisang – October 3, 2014

3 Things:
– Holy Annapurna 2 views! (that’s a mountain)
– Nepali sheep hats
– Altitude – really starting to feel it! Over 10k feet… Maybe 11k now

Best part of the day:
Making it to Ghyaru. It was a crazy steep long climb up, about 600 meters up in a mile and a half at the end of our day. I was feeling the altitude. But the little tiny village was so endearing and had incredible views!

Worst part of the day:
Breaking my sunglasses! Ugh!! I’m SO mad at myself, I just wasn’t being careful and bent them and pop out the lense. Rick got them semi back together, in a fragile state… And swears he can get them back to new once we are back to town and he has a screwdriver and lighter. Yea for skilled husband!

I’m thankful for:
Good Nepali home cooking. The guest house in Ghyaru served the best food we’ve had so far! I had Dal Bhat which is the official dish of nepal. It’s varied as to exactly what the flavors are, but it consists of rice, a lentil soup and some kind of other stewed/curry bowl of something (can be veggies, yak, chickeb) this one was rice, lentil soup (dal) and what they call a vegetable curry, but this one didn’t have the overwhelming curry flavor to me… Just good flavor. It was so yummy! And made from the garden outside our window.

Memory verse:
Assurance of Answered Prayer – John 16:24
“Until now you have asked for nothing in my name. Ask and you will receive and your joy will be complete.”

Rick’s take on the Day:
As we’ve been hiking we keep passing these walls of Mani Stones. Intricately carved rocks with Tibetan Buddhist prayers carved into them. Thousands of them are pilled into walls like the one below:

We almost stopped in Upper Pisang, but our team of 4 (with David and Molly) rallied for the big 2 hour push to Ghyaru at 12,000 Ft with is higher than Manang (the next town on our trek) which will help our acclimatization. Everyone seems to be dealing with the altitude well so far.

The last hour and a half from Pisang to Ghyaru was an absolutely crazy uphill 600 vertical meter climb. I was glad we bought walking sticks for 250 nrp north of Dhilur Pokhari to help with the climbing. Our reward was some of the most wonderful views of Annapurna 2 from Upper Pisang and the amazing views of Annapurna 4 from Ghyaru.

The accommodation in Ghyaru are much sparser, but very endearing none the less.

Trekking is feeling good!

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October 2, 2014October 18, 2014

Danakyu (2300m) to Chame (2670m) – October 2, 2014

Today we had a much easier walk. While the trail is marked pretty well, occasionally there are challenges…

Two signs pointing opposite directions to Chame? — Which way to Chame?

I also realized that trying to capture all of the details of every day in a blog is going to kill me! So we met some great folks from California today (the first Americans we’ve met in Nepal) who had a great idea; A daily journal with, where we started and ended, and 3 words/things/phrases that best highlight the day, and maybe a sentence or two… I’m changing it a bit to answer our “family dinner questions” (Jacobus family shout out!); Best part of the day, Worst Part of the Day, and What I’m Thankful For.

So that’s my new goal! And pictures of course! More detail when we can. So far on our hike we’ve been trying to memorize a bible verse a day, so I’ll add that too.

3 Things:
– California friends (Molly and David)
– First mountain views and Apple country
– Hot springs

Best part of the day:
Meeting fun new friends to hike and chat with, who have a much better guide book than us!

Worst part of the day:
Nothing bad really… Our new friends getting stomach sick

I’m thankful for:
A wonderful patient husband who takes my hangry-grumpiness, random freak-outs and poor trail singing in stride and still loves me

Memory verse
Assurance of Salvation – John 5:24

“I tell you the truth, he who hears my word and believes in Him who sent me has eternal life. He will not be condemned, but has already passed from death into life.”

Kids selling apples on the road side. — Kids selling apples on the roadside

The "Hot Spring" in Chame. — This was the “Hot Spring.” It was hot and fairly relaxing.

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October 1, 2014October 14, 2014

Chamje (1430m) to Danakyu (2300m) – October 1, 2014

We set off from Chamje (1430m) after breakfast with our new friends, but quickly, they outpaced us (helps that they had porters!) and then we took “the scenic route” from the fancy guide book Rick got ([amazon text=Trekking the Annapurna Circuit&asin=B00F1X3LQ6]). In my estimation, it was just on the other side of the river and had massive ups and downs, while the road was a steady climb and faster. So we lost our friends. The waterfalls were crazy incredible though.

It was so much more lush than I dreamed!! And gorgeous flowers everywhere – like all of the ones you see at the florist just growing everywhere – zinnias, gladiolus and a bunch I can’t remember the names of! And the most beautiful butterflies ever!

We are hiking along side the river at least every day so far. Not because it’s pretty, but because it’s the only way you can get around the enormous mountains. The mountains are so different here. They are so straight up, so steep, so sharp. This days hike was incredible with the lush forest and waterfalls, but it was a LONG day and bit of a beating.

We happily ran into our friends later that afternoon when we stopped for the day in Danakyu (2300m), and found the BEST guest house yet!!! I think we were the first people to stay in our room – they are amazing craftsmen here. All hand made out of wood and perfectly cut. The room smell of fresh pine and I could’ve sworn the mattresses were Tempurpedic!! At least compared to previous. If you’re ever in the neighborhood we highly suggest the New Manaslu Hotel!

We got our first view of some BIG mountains not the ones we’re hiking, but the Manaslu Range and it was incredible! The mountains are so big they look like clouds!

I have to say I felt like I was staying in a 5 star hotel! HOT shower (which is rare, they all say they have hot solar showers, but that only if you are the first to take it and take a 45 sec shower). Comfy bed! Clean squat toilet! I felt like royalty! (And they had this awesome Tibetian Dog!)

And my highlight of the day was being allowed to sit in the kitchen next to the fire while our hosts cooked dinner and chat with Leonie and Maryse! In Nepal the kitchen is a private place, you don’t let guests in there, you don’t hang out in there – the best comparison I can think of is like our master bathrooms, kinda. So anyway, we felt so privileged to get to sit and enjoy our Nepali hosts.

Danakyu Tea House Kitchen — Yes… That is fresh goat meat curing over the wood stove.

We ordered dinner and got to watch them make it… From scratch. And from scratch has a different meaning here! We ordered Vegetable Momo – these delicious little dumplings they have here. As soon as we ordered one of the girls goes out to their garden and harvests a bunch of spinach and onion and garlic. And then they start making the dough. It’s an hour and half process. Every step so intricate and so cared about! Folding the Momos is such an art. I couldn’t stop watching and they laughed at me. But they are truly individual pieces of art. And of course tasted delicious!

We so enjoyed getting to know Leonie and Maryse! They have created and fund a home for at risk girls in Pokhara – they have about 25 girls in the program, from 5 years old to 16 years or so. And they pay for their school — all of the way through!! Which is rare here — and help find them good jobs. Leonie, please send me your school info, once you are done with your trek, so I can share! They visit the girls every year, and as part of their trip do a trek so we got to learn from the experts! Perhaps we will get to visit them in Switzerland! 🙂

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